9 Things That Will Either Make or Break Medellin For You
Let’s explore 9 major components of living in Medellin.
By Kaveh Paymayesh
There are always two sides to every coin. Let’s go over both sides of the 9 factors that either make or break Medellin for you.
1. The economic situation
The economic situation in Colombia gives plenty for foreigners to love and hate…
On the one hand, many that come to Medellin are able to capitalize on the affordable cost of living.
On the other hand, the same thing that makes Medellin affordable is what makes it crime-ridden; I’m talking about economic disparity. It’s a reality that continues to deepen in both the region and country.
For many foreigners, the lower cost of living provides them with a higher standard of life; access to better healthcare, lifestyle; more disposable income, etc…
However, these do not come without a significant cost. In Medellin, you are generally more likely to be a victim of violent crime than you are in the West.
I know of various individuals that have left Medellin because of this. The threat of crime was too substantial for them to bear. A notable example is the founder of Medellin Living – David Lee.
After being robbed several times by armed motorists and receiving threats online, David decided to leave the city that he had called home since 2009.
2. Culture
Medellin has garnered a reputation for its culture. In recent times, travellers and expatriates alike have praised the city for the friendliness of its people.
I too can attest to the friendliness of Paisas. My first visit to Medellin was one I did alone. At that time, the ex-pat community was small & undeveloped.
These factors pushed me to dive deep into the culture; it didn’t take long to befriend some locals. Shoutout to all the taxistas that showed me love and curiosity!
You know what though? Contrary to the expectation of my friends back home, I never once felt lonely in Medellin.
Why is that? It’s because those Paisas cultivate such a warm, hospitable environment!
I’d also add that it’s one thing to enter a collectivist society; it’s another to leave an individualist one. To go from a fairly ‘cold’ culture in the UK to a warmer one in South America – it’s a big, sudden change. It hits you hard, in a fantastic way.
It’s one of the big reasons that people want to stay in Medellin. Their day-to-day lives are filled with smiles, conversation, festivity…
Once you’ve experienced that, it becomes hard to go back to the bitter grind of the West.
Striking conversation with strangers in the UK is a culturally atypical thing to do (in London at least). In Medellin, it’s not.
After 5 months in Medellin, I grew out of my shell and became a far more outgoing individual. This is something that has stuck with me 7 years later.
On the flip side, the machismo culture in Medellin is strong. It is a hyper-sexualized city. Men catcall… all the time.
At 21, I thought that was okay. I was young and stupid.
Now, not so much.
I know of female ex-pats that found this overbearing over time. The prospect of old men whistling at you and beckoning you over? No thanks. It’s not what I’d want for my sister or anybody else.
If you live here, one thing that’ll get to you is the flakiness of people. People tend to overcommit themselves. Maybe it’s because they know half of those plans will fall through, or simply because they don’t want to disappoint you. Inadvertently, that’s exactly what they’ll end up doing when they delay you or fail to turn up altogether.
Finally, those coming from well-oiled societies may grow weathered by the lack of efficiency. This is evident, day-to-day in Medellin.
Going to any supermarket may have you pulling out your hair. Expect to wait for inordinately long periods of time at the checkout. In the West, we streamline the checkout experience to ensure that you’re never waiting longer than needed.
Also…
3. Food
Another one bites the crust...
Do you know what divides opinion? The topic of food in Medellin.
The reason for this is that Antioquian food is fairly bland in comparison with that of other cuisines. Famous dishes like the Bandeja Paisa are unlikely to inspire those with a discerning pallet.
Also, why is the Antioquian take on the arepa so… bland? I mean, they look, feel and I’m beginning to believe, taste like hockey pucks.
I’m being facetious now. In truth, Paisas enjoy their food. Their dishes may lack spices, but that’s because they don’t want them there. In fact, many locals are not used to the taste of various spices.
The signs were there… Over many years, I’ve seen young restauranteurs open their doors in Medellin. They came with passion and energy. Regardless, many ended up closing their doors. I even saw this in Provenza.
Fortunately now, with the proliferation of tourism, there are more bellies eager, if not desperate, for international food.
Antioquia had long been an isolated region and this is evident when observing the cuisine.
Is this a problem for foreigners? Generally not. On Facebook groups and amongst bloggers, it is common to see people gripe about the local food though. Whilst it may be a contributing factor when deciding to leave, as it was for ‘How To Expat’, it’s hardly a dealbreaker. Why?
What Medellin may lack in spices, it makes up for in quality.
In my experience, the quality of ingredients, beef especially, is outstanding.
It far exceeds the quality of beef in the US, which is compromised by profit-maximizing practices. For example, in Medellin, you won’t find corn-fed beef. Cows graze on fertile hills and the result is noticeable.
Also, the biggest, creamiest and cheapest avocados I’ve ever had the luxury of consuming were in Medellin.
4. City life
Living in a city equates to having many options – to people, places and things.
Unfortunately, you don’t have the option to avoid pollution, traffic or noise. They are ubiquitous and unavoidable.
The pollution, in particular, is my biggest gripe of the three. Perhaps it’s my asthma that makes it a more notable problem.
Having said that…
If you’re a ‘people’ person, you’re likely to appreciate the diversity of people that can be found in Medellin.
Interestingly, Medellin’s society was relatively homogenous. Coming from London, I was used to seeing people from all different ethnic backgrounds.
Until recently in Medellin, you’d see Paisas – not much more and not much less.
In recent years, however, things have changed. The city has been recognised as an attractive destination and pulls people from all corners of the globe.
Alongside Paisas, expect to meet lots of Venezuelans, Colombians (from other regions) and last but not least – international tourists!
Indeed, Medellin’s population is growing vastly. The problem with that is that Medellin is located in a ‘hueco’; a hole in the mountains. This means that space is limited.
In fact, the total valley possesses just 1,116km2. Despite accounting for 1.83% of Antioquia’s land space, it inhabits over 58% of the department’s entire population.
Although population density is a problem throughout Colombia and SA, Medellin ‘suffers’ the most in this regard.
On average, each square kilometre is shared by 3,717 people.
Chuck poverty and economic disparity into the mix, and you have the perfect recipe for crime.
Oh yeah, Paisas love to party. Have this in mind if you think you’re ever entitled to peace and quiet.
To be fair, London’s population density is much greater with an average of 5,701 people/km2.
Even so, London does NOT suffer from relentless, gridlock traffic as Medellin does. Want to go from Poblado to Laureles? A journey that should take 20 minutes could require well over an hour. The traffic in Medellin is awful, despite government strategies that attempt to mitigate it.
Going back to the positives, the expat community is now thriving enough to ensure that there is something for everyone. You can find like-minded people by participating in different Facebook groups.
Outside of those groups, the city is replete with international events, such as the Flower Festival, Tango Festival, Altavoz (for all you metalheads).
Finally, from Medellin you have access to cheap domestic travel. Most Americans can fly back home to Florida in a matter of 2.5 hours.
5. Climate
When promoting Medellin, one of the first things listed is the climate. After all, we’re talking about the ‘City of Eternal Spring’.
And righteously so – the weather in Medellin is excellent. Thanks to both its altitude of 1,500m and proximity to the equator, the valley experiences consistently warm weather of around 22.5°C.
We’re talking about daytime highs of 27°C and nighttime lows of 16°C.
The climate zone in the Aburra Valley is unique. Anywhere outside of the tropic band is subject to seasonal variations. This means that not all months are equal in terms of temperature and daylight hours. This yearly variation becomes more pronounced as you move further from the tropics and closer to the polar regions.
In the UK for example, our climate is more bipolar. Summer days are long and warm; almost euphoric. Winter days are cold, bitter and very short. What comes up must come down…
For those like myself – those that can’t deal with that kind of swing, Medellin provides the stability you desire.
Again, Medellin’s altitude is an asset. It allows the city to avoid the sweltering heat and humidity associated with the tropics.
Having said that, it’s not perfect. Does Medellin experience variations in its climate? Yes, now more than ever. Thanks to certain climate events known as El Nino and La Nina, there are more pronounced dry and wet periods.
Although Medellin is known as the City of Eternal Spring, it doesn’t stop some people from complaining about the rain…
6. Landscape
Due to its location within the Aburra Valley, Medellin feels unworldly. No matter where you look, there are always guaranteed views of awe-inspiring mountains. Not only are they massive, but luscious too.
Maybe I speak for myself, but they feel larger than life. To get tired of those views is to get tired of life itself.
Medellin’s scenery is dramatic and replete with biodiversity. According to the Guardian, Medellin is one of the top 5 most biodiverse cities on the planet.
That’s not hard to believe. The city brands itself as one of the world’s first ‘Eco-cities’ and evidence of its worthiness can be found everywhere.
If you want to be in a city that places ecology at the forefront of its urban design, or if you want to be in a city that boasts dense tree cover on almost every street, come to Medellin! It will not disappoint you.
On the other hand, some of the city’s fanciest (and poorest) neighbourhoods are located on the fringes of the valley.
If you’re coming to Medellin, you’ll likely be staying in El Poblado. Well, be prepared for massive hills.
It’s a common complaint, certain people cannot handle the topography. Even walking to the local shops may involve you having to descend and ascend 100m in altitude.
7. Entry options
The beautiful thing about Colombia is that visitors are welcome. US & European nationals can enter the country for travel or business, for an initial period of 90 days.
Before those 90 days are up, you can request an extension of another 90 days at the Immigration Office in Belen.
The problem, and in many cases deciding factor as to when foreigners leave Colombia, is the lack of options once those 180 days are spent.
The most common visa I see people approach is the student visa. This is supposedly the easiest to get but all too often I see people packing up and leaving because of last minute problems.
A well-known Medellin based YouTuber, “Life With David” recently left the country as he failed to secure his student visa. Likewise, “How to Expat” also left the country after struggling to secure a visa.
Making the matter worse is that each year, there seem to be revisions to their requirements, spelling trouble for many.
People have been speculating that there will be a ‘nomad’ visa released soon. Don’t hold your breath though. In Colombia, everything is done at a snail’s pace.
8. Language
According to a report by Education First, English proficiency in Medellin is deemed to be “bajo” (low).
I have no problem believing that!
After watching an American throw his toys out of the pram because the waiters couldn’t speak English, I’m sure that not everybody appreciates the lack of English.
And I sort of get it, not everybody wants to or is even capable of learning another language. Heck, most people struggle plenty with their own. P.S. – I hate arrogant, imperialistic tourists like that. YOU’RE IN COLOMBIA! This ain’t the US.
I relish the lack of English, and I know I’m not alone. What better place in the world is there to learn a language than somewhere where English is not spoken? These days, it’s becoming increasingly rare. Globalization has seen to that… It’s getting harder to practice.
Medellin is one of the few foreign places where people generally don’t answer you back in broken English – they can’t!
I’ve noticed that those serious about learning Spanish tend to do so quickly in Medellin. It’s not only because of the immersion; the Spanish spoken in Antioquia is clear and rhythmic. It’s the perfect formula for Spanish noobs to get in some good progress.
I think Medellin has plenty of potential in this regard.
9. Women
Ahh, women…
Nothing quite gets men flocking into – and subsequently fleeing Medellin quite like women.
I’ve seen men come from far and wide, in droves. Age nor race matter. They all come, understandably, for women that are beautiful and alluring.
For many, it’s a happy story; things end up well. But would I call Medellin the Valley of Love? Not quite.
To be fair though, a lot of men come with the right expectations. They understand what these women are looking for: not just a pretty face. They’ll provide the care and support that these beautiful women need. In turn, everybody is happy. Medellin is full of these kinds of inter-generational relationships. It’s a thing here but seems to work.
Conversely, too many men come here completely out of touch with reality. They end up falling into the grasp of ‘interesadas’ – women that’ll strip your wallet dry.
That’s if you’re lucky. I’ve seen many men packing up their bags because they ended up getting drugged with scopolamine and robbed of their dignity, memory and money. It happens, a lot…
You should check out my Tinder guide. I explain how Tinder is a hotspot of bad things.
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