Visit Plaza Botero Like Never Before. Safe and Segregated?
By Kaveh Paymayesh
Plaza Botero, one of the city’s biggest touristic attractions, is again the centre of controversy. Gone are the old crowd and in are the visitors. What of it?
In early Feb, 2023, the government installed fencing and 24-hour surveillance to refine who can and can’t enter the park, gifted by Medellin’s greatest artist, Fernando Botero.
These measures, although controversial, are part of the government’s strategy to recover the plaza and help it fully realize its potential as a tourist attraction.
Have you checked out the new ambience over at Plaza Botero?
My experience
I feel that the plaza is now much safer and quieter. The atmosphere felt subdued yet more cultivated. I honestly didn’t know how to feel…
Around me were primarily foreign tourists and a few venders in-between. Nothing like I’d seen before.
Talk about polarity though. Outside the secured zone is a reality that is worlds apart. El Centro has never been a stranger to danger but the area surrounding the plaza is currently a nightmare! The loss of Plaza Botero to the public means that all its troubles have been dumped outside. Bazuceros, addicts and nefarious sorts of all type were shoulder to shoulder outside the fencing. It was unruly; I couldn’t leave sooner.
Regardless, I do expect to see the actual plaza flourish. It may not be the public space it once was but thanks to improved safety, it will be put to good use. I expect to see more public events.
What is Plaza Botero?
Plaza Botero is one of the city’s biggest cultural emblems thanks to the goodwill of its most renown artist, Fernando Botero.
Botero has left his mark on the international stage with his work visible in every corner of the globe, including Paris, New York and Dubai.
His signature style, known as ‘Boterismo’, depicts figures in exaggerated and voluptuous shapes. Through these depictions, Botero’s art embodies both political humour and criticism.
Despite the ubiquity of his work throughout the world, nowhere else will you find as many of his sculptures as you will in Plaza Botero. Packed within the 8,000m2 park are 23 of his most recognisable sculptures, all of which he donated in 1997 to the city under stipulations. He demanded that his sculptures be maintained on a timely basis – every 6 months; a demand that the city has routinely honoured.
Botero also made it clear before donating his work that it should be used for the good of the city; to bring about social & economic dividends. His work was to be available for everybody.
The problem is that the park, thanks to its central location, has long been a shady area attracting a broad mix of characters. Thousands flock to the area to try and make a scant living and you’d expect, La Candelaria still experiences more crime than anywhere else in the city. Plaza Botero, despite its cultural worth, has been held-back by this reality.
The park is loaded with art coming from the nation’s biggest artist. Yet, visitors struggle to appreciate this among the surrounding mayhem. Many, myself included, are more concerned with keeping their head on a swivel!
Botero’s sculptures have, or had been available for the general public since 2002.
Access to the Park Is Now Secured
In early February, the current mayor, Daniel Quintero, put into place a set of new measures that would ultimately restrict access to the square. Specifically, a police perimeter was erected and guarded with 24-hour surveillance. Access is now strictly controlled with 4 improvised police checkpoints. According to Daniel Quintero, these same points of entry will in the future become streamlined to detect offensive items.
This decision to safeguard the square has polarized residents with two schools of thought, and even Botero himself has chimed in against the decision.
In a letter addressed to the mayor, Botero has said the following:
“I have always followed the news about Botero Square, both those that talk about the security problems, as well as these last ones about its enclosure. That is why I want to express that my will has always been that this place should be for all citizens and that the Museum of Antioquia should be its main caretaker”.
Segregation at Plaza Botero?
Do these new measures go against the wishes of Botero to “let the city transit freely, the way it should be”?
Daniel Quintero, in an official response to Botero assured that this is not a “closure” but an “embrace”. In his defence, Plaza Botero has long suffered with delinquency despite being the city’s cultural icon.
The potential for tourism in Plaza Botero, despite all its culture and history, has been hindered. The spaces surrounding the statues have always attracted beggars, prostitutes and criminals.
In my opinion, this has affected tourism adversely as safety was always in question.
Quintero has attempted to justify these stiff new security measures by focusing on the results that they’ve achieved already. In one week 3 arrests were made and weapons (that would otherwise be in the square) have been seized.
UPDATE (01.03.23): directly outside the square today, a man was stabbed to death in a lethal altercation.
Improved Safety Comes at a Cost
Is this really a recovery of public space as Quintero suggests?
Although we can all agree that increased safety is imperative, it comes at the cost of prioritizing tourists over locals, who have long tried to scratch a living in and around the square.
Quintero also assures that the square is open for all but there are accounts that this is down to the discretion of the authorities.
Vendors who would previously frequent the zone to sell whatever merchandise or goods they could are now left without their place of work. There is uncertainty regarding who can and can’t enter the park and the line between discrimination and security is nebulous. Unions of sex workers & vendors, with the advice of lawyers, have also voiced this unease to the mayor.
Daniel Quintero has since doubled down though, saying that he believes the park will never be closed and that the intervention is really a means of restoring the space to the public.
What do you think?
In his official response letter to Botero, Quintero mentions that the flow of vendors and locals have not been perturbed and that over 70 vendors have come together, in an organized manner, to share the public space.
La respuesta de maestro Botero. Gracias Maestro. Lo queremos a usted y a su obra. Medellín es Botero. pic.twitter.com/CvOzMsrQKr
— Daniel Quintero Calle (@QuinteroCalle) February 18, 2023
Plaza Botero is Already Starting to Flourish
By controlling transit into the square, the once intimidating atmosphere has evolved into one that is more inviting. Survive the area outside and you’ll enter a place where art can flourish.
According to this article, the intervention at Plaza Botero has made it possible to innovate as a territory where ‘art, culture and heritage coexist’.
On Feb 24, the park initiated what it calls the ‘Cultura Parque’, which aims to utilize the public space for different events. All of which would have been impossible before.
I would say that this is a much better use of public space, especially of that which is as enriched and culturally significant as Plaza Botero.
Should You Visit Plaza Botero?
Yes! This stiff, new measure to bolster security and ultimately deny access to many of the zone’s previous inhabitants is a controversial move.
It has provoked the question, “for who is this space really opening up (and for who is it closing)”?
Ultimately, this is a social question and beyond this scope of visitors. That shouldn’t stop you from visiting.
What I can say is that the park is cleaner, safer and more inviting than ever. Its a relief to see this new and subdued atmosphere; one that emits a more artistic energy.
One can finally take in the sights without having to worry about ‘giving papaya’. With security now addressed, we can expect to see Plaza Botero deliver on the city stage; more activities and events hopefully.
Something I did notice is that in creating this perimeter, the areas around the park have become even worse!
There is now more congestion, venders and overall craziness which has been compressed outside the square’s perimeter.
UPDATE (01.03.23):
A man was found stabbed to death right outside the security zone. Preliminary investigations believe this could be due to an altercation. Talk about contrasts.
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